Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
